NEW YORK (AP) — Accusing immigrant and minority groups of strange or unsightly eating habits has a long history in America, often used as a way to suggest these communities don’t truly belong here.
This theme was recently revisited during a presidential debate when former President Donald Trump highlighted a baseless online rumor regarding the Haitian immigrant community in Springfield, Ohio. He repeated unfounded claims, originally made by his running mate, JD Vance, alleging that these immigrants were stealing and eating pets. This false narrative caught enough public attention that local officials felt compelled to clarify that there was no credible evidence supporting such accusations.
Though it may be shocking, these food-related accusations aren’t new. They’ve been directed at immigrant communities throughout history.
In the late 1800s, Chinese immigrants on the West Coast faced similar scorn for their culinary practices as their numbers grew in the United States. Over time, this scrutiny extended to other Asian and Pacific Islander groups, such as Thai and Vietnamese communities. Just last year, a Thai restaurant in California received hateful backlash that was so severe the owner had to relocate.
Paul Freedman, a professor of history at Yale University, explains that such derogatory sentiments stem from the belief that the food choices of these communities violate fundamental human norms. By characterizing Chinese immigrants as individuals who eat what many Americans consider unacceptable, they became labeled as “the other.”
Food as a Source of Tension in the U.S.
While some immigrant groups might not face accusations of eating pets, they often encounter ridicule for the unfamiliarity of their dishes. For instance, Italians have been mocked for their heavy use of garlic, while Indian cuisine is often criticized for its extensive use of spices like curry powder. Longer-established minority communities are not immune to these stereotypes either; derogatory remarks about Mexicans and beans or the association of African Americans with fried chicken and watermelon remain prevalent.
“There’s a derogatory term for nearly every ethnicity linked to the food they eat,” says Amy Bentley, a professor at New York University, stressing how food can be weaponized to demean groups.
Food is much more than mere nourishment; it embodies cultural identity and tradition. As Bentley points out, food is a vital part of rituals and celebrations in our lives. “Food is used to commemorate special occasions, like birthdays and anniversaries,” she states. It defines both our similarities and differences.
Moreover, the manners in which we eat can also invite criticism. Eating with one’s hands or using chopsticks instead of forks and knives can draw scorn, reflecting societal biases towards different socioeconomic backgrounds. Those with less access to formal dining arrangements or who rely on diverse, often unfamiliar ingredients due to financial constraints frequently face judgment.
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These food-related slights often resonate in contemporary issues. During the Second Gulf War, animosity towards France due to its opposition to the U.S. invasion led to the term “freedom fries” replacing French fries in some American circles. Similarly, the term “krauts” was derogatorily used for Germans during the World Wars, drawing from their traditional dish, sauerkraut.
In her 1998 book, “We Are What We Eat: Ethnic Food and the Making of Americans,” Donna R. Gabaccia queries what exactly is objectionable about urban immigrants’ eating habits. She recalls that during the early 20th century, there was a strong push for “100% Americanism,” noting how sauerkraut was whimsically dubbed “victory cabbage” and how one observer criticized an Italian family for allegedly not assimilating fast enough due to their continued consumption of spaghetti.
The Evolution of Culinary Perspectives
Despite the persistence of these stereotypes, the American palate has significantly expanded over the years, largely due to the contributions of various immigrant communities. Grocery stores are now stocked with a wide array of ingredients that would have been unimaginable in the past, and many diners have developed a taste for authentic ethnic cuisines that they may never have experienced without traveling.
As Bentley notes, “When immigrants settle in a new country, they bring their culinary traditions with them.” Food can be a soulful link to their heritage and identity.
Haitian cuisine is a prime example of this cultural contribution, with communities in cities like New York introducing ingredients such as goat, plantains, and cassava into the broader gastronomic landscape.
However, when Trump remarked that immigrants in Springfield were consuming pets, it transcended mere food and tapped into deeper cultural tensions. Despite the broadening of American culinary tastes, lingering food stereotypes and insults persist, indicating that an expanded palate does not necessarily lead to greater understanding or acceptance of diverse communities.
“It’s a misconception to believe that enjoying another culture’s food translates into broader acceptance,” Freedman warns. “A perfect example is Mexican cuisine; many people relish it yet still advocate for immigration restrictions. Liking a foreign cuisine doesn’t automatically equate to openness towards its people.”
