KARACHI, Pakistan (AP) — The Mohatta Palace is a beautiful landmark in Karachi, a bustling city with a population of 20 million. Its stained glass windows, grand staircase, and richly decorated interiors make it stand out. As visitors enter the palace grounds, they are greeted by peacocks wandering on the lawn, and the busy sounds of construction and traffic fade away.
The palace is adorned with pink stone balustrades, domes, and rooftops that seem to have been inspired by Rajasthan, a region in northern India, reminding one of a time when Muslims and Hindus peacefully coexisted in this port city.
However, despite its grandeur, the palace faces threats in a rapidly developing city where land is scarce. Issues like demolition, illegal encroachment, neglect, fragmented preservation laws, and vandalism are slowly erasing Karachi’s historical landmarks.
Efforts to prevent the palace from being converted into a dental college have been successful so far, but a lengthy legal battle continues, as heirs of a previous owner are contesting to reclaim the land. The palace remained unused for nearly twenty years before it opened as a museum in 1999.
Located in the desirable Old Clifton neighborhood, the palace is surrounded by elegant mansions, businesses, and upscale restaurants.
According to Faisal Siddiqi, the palace’s lawyer, “The land where places like Mohatta Palace stand is highly sought after. It seems that greed often takes precedence over our heritage.”
With Karachi’s population growing by about 2% each year, many diverse communities are vying for space, leaving little room for efforts to protect the city’s historical sites.
For many Pakistanis, Mohatta Palace offers a glimpse into the architectural beauty of Rajasthan, as travel restrictions and bureaucratic hurdles make it difficult for people on both sides of the border to visit each other’s countries for leisure, education, or work.
Heba Hashmi, a heritage manager and maritime archaeologist, points out that Karachi’s multicultural history makes it more challenging to garner support for preservation compared to a city like Lahore, which has strong ties to the Mughal Empire, historically dominated by Muslims.
“In a city as socially divided as Karachi, it’s nearly impossible to get the level of local community backing needed for government investment in preservation,” she observes.
The palace, built in the 1920s by Hindu businessman Shivratan Mohatta, symbolizes this diversity. He constructed it as a coastal retreat for his sick wife, hoping she would benefit from the sea breeze. Distinctive pink stone from Jodhpur, now located in India, was brought to the site by hundreds of donkey carts.
After India and Pakistan were separated in 1947, Mohatta left the country. For a period, the palace was used by Pakistan’s Foreign Ministry, and later it became the home of Fatima Jinnah, the sister of Pakistan’s first leader and a notable politician in her own right.
Upon her death, the palace was passed to her sister Shirin. However, after Shirin’s passing in 1980, disputes over ownership led to court battles, resulting in the building being sealed off.
The now-dark and abandoned palace, surrounded by unkempt gardens and locked gates, has sparked local legends of ghosts and supernatural occurrences. As a child, Nasreen Askari, the museum’s current director, recalls being warned about the spooky “bhoot bungalow” and rushing past it.
Visitor Ahmed Tariq, originally from Bahawalpur in India, heard about the palace’s stunning architecture and compelling history. “I have seen the Noor Mahal palace in my hometown, so I wanted to compare it with this one. It’s well-maintained, rich in detail, and a pleasurable experience,” he shared.
However, admission fees do not provide sufficient funds for the palace’s upkeep. The general entry fee is just 30 rupees (around 10 U.S. cents), and entry is free for students, children, and senior citizens. On a particularly hot afternoon, very few visitors were present.
The palace is open Tuesday through Sunday, but it closes on public holidays and features limited operating hours that don’t align well with Karachi’s vibrant nightlife.
The palace is also rented out for corporate and charitable events, leading to some local complaints about increased traffic and noise. Yet, not all attention is welcome; while it might help raise awareness for the palace, it doesn’t align with its image.
Ghost stories have spread via TikTok, attracting influencers eager for spooky tales, though the palace has banned filming inside and even restricted TikTok creators at one point.
“This isn’t the type of exposure the trustees desired,” said Askari. “Whenever something has historical significance, it tends to draw attention.” A notice at the gates also forbids fashion shoots, weddings, and commercial filming.
“While we could generate significant income, it would come at a cost,” she added. “It would lead to an influx of weddings and limit visitors, requiring constant cleanup.”
Hashmi notes that many preserved historical sites face territorialism, which paradoxically transforms them into exclusive landmarks that only a select few can enjoy.
