This holiday season, Scoma’s Restaurant in San Francisco has been busy perfecting its eggnog, a labor of love that began nearly a year ago. The preparation kicks off just after the last holiday festivities end in late January, involving nearly a thousand egg yolks, countless gallons of heavy cream, and about $1,000 worth of vanilla beans, all mixed with sugar, sherry, brandy, and aged rum. The mixture is then carefully stored at a cool 34 degrees Fahrenheit (1 degree Celsius) and stirred weekly for several months to ensure rich flavor development.
Phil Kenny, a satisfied customer at Scoma’s, believes the wait is well justified. “It’s a wonderful, specialty drink,” he remarked, praising the restaurant’s refined recipe that elevates traditional eggnog. “This takes eggnog to a different level.” His wife, Laurie, agrees, and they both look forward to enjoying this seasonal treat each year.
Not only the Kennys are fans; the eggnog has gained a cult following. Gordon Drysdale, Scoma’s culinary director, noted, “A drink that you would sort of associate with grandma and grandpa during the holidays has become like a cult favorite here. We never expected customers to get upset with us when it was unavailable.” Such enthusiasm speaks to the eggnog’s growing popularity among patrons.
The origins of eggnog trace back to medieval England, where a drink called “posset” was created, consisting of hot milk or cream mixed with alcohol and spices. Over the centuries, numerous variations have emerged, with non-dairy and alcohol-free recipes increasingly available. Nevertheless, some classic formulas, like the renowned eggnog daiquiri at Lafitte’s Blacksmith Shop in New Orleans, remain closely guarded secrets.
At Lafitte’s, located in the French Quarter, Jamie Gourges, the marketing manager, describes their eggnog as “a little Christmas magic.” Though she keeps the recipe under wraps, she does share that it is freshly made each morning starting after Thanksgiving and lasting until Three Kings Day (Epiphany) on January 6. This tradition goes back over 20 years and is served in a historic establishment that dates to the early 1700s, which is said to be haunted by the famous French pirate Jean Lafitte.
Terry Wittmer, a local New Orleans resident, eagerly anticipates the holiday season at the bar. “It tastes like Christmas. It’s a little cinnamon-y, smooth, and if consumed too quickly, it could lead to a brain freeze,” he laughed, explaining that he lives just a block away and feels particularly joyful during the holidays.
Even tourists drawn in by the bar’s famous “purple drank” daiquiri find themselves enticed by the festive eggnog. Cheryl Abrigo from Florida exclaimed, “It’s not going to have a problem going down, let’s put it that way,” as she enjoyed her drink.
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Smith reported from New Orleans, while Dazio covered the story from Los Angeles.
