KAJIADO, Kenya (AP) — For a long time, the Maasai people in Kenya have relied on cattle for their essential foods, such as blood, milk, and meat. However, climate change is forcing this well-known community to consider a new main food source: fish.
A recent extended drought in Kenya has resulted in the death of millions of livestock. While Maasai elders are hopeful that these challenges are temporary and that they can return to their traditional herding lifestyles, some community members are beginning to adapt by exploring a food they had never learned to appreciate before.
Traditionally, the Maasai viewed fish as inedible, likening them to snakes due to their shape and finding their smell unfamiliar and unpleasant, especially since the Maasai inhabit semi-arid regions.
“We never lived close to lakes or oceans, so fish was very strange to us,” explained Kelena ole Nchoi, the chair of the Maasai Council of Elders. “We grew up seeing our elders eating cows and goats.”
Cattle hold significant cultural value among the Maasai and other pastoralist communities in Kenya and East Africa, like the Samburu, Somali, and Borana. They symbolize status and wealth and play a role in important cultural practices, such as marriage ceremonies where cattle are often given as dowries.
However, the ongoing drought across much of East Africa has left the skeletal remains of starving cattle scattered across parched land. In early 2023, the Kenya National Drought Management Authority reported that 2.6 million livestock died, with a staggering estimated loss of 226 billion Kenyan shillings (around $1.75 billion).
Compounding the difficulties, increasing urbanization and a rising population are shrinking available grazing land, prompting pastoralists to find new ways to sustain their livelihoods.
In Kajiado County, near Nairobi, the local government is promoting fish farming initiatives to help pastoralists diversify their food sources and encourage them to include fish in their diets.
One Maasai woman, Charity Oltinki, had previously focused on beadwork while her husband managed their cattle. However, after the drought eliminated nearly 100 of their cows and reduced their flock from 300 to just 50 sheep, she sought a new opportunity.
“The land was depleted, leaving nothing for the cows to graze on,” Oltinki said. “So I decided to use part of our land to raise fish and see how it would go.”
The county government assisted her by providing pond liners, tilapia fingerlings, and fish feed. Oltinki also used her savings from a cooperative to secure a loan and dig a well to tackle water shortages.
After six months, she successfully harvested hundreds of fish, with the largest ones fetching around 300 Kenyan shillings each (about $2.30).
Another community member, Philipa Leiyan, has also started fish farming alongside her livestock.
This government initiative began in 2014 and has since engaged with 600 pastoralists, helping them to diversify their sources of income and creating a safety net against the adverse effects of climate change. Although there was initial hesitation, participation has increased from about 250 individuals before the drought started in 2022.
“The program has shown great promise,” said Benson Siangot, Kajiado County’s fisheries director, noting that it also tackles issues of food insecurity and malnutrition.
The Maasai share their appreciation for cattle with the Samburu people, who also live in arid regions of northern Kenya and speak a dialect related to the Maa language.
The recent drought has also pushed the Samburu to look beyond cattle to other animals, like camels.
Abdulahi Mohamud of Lekiji village has turned to caring for 20 camels after the drought claimed his 30 cattle. He opted for this more resilient animal, suited to harsh, dry conditions.
“Camels are easier to raise because they mainly eat shrubs and can survive prolonged dry spells,” he explained. “When the grass dries up, cattle often die.”
According to Mohamud, a small camel costs between 80,000 and 100,000 Kenyan shillings ($600 to $770), while a cow can be purchased for 20,000 to 40,000 shillings ($154 to $300).
He believes that the camel’s resilience makes the investment worthwhile.
In a nearby grazing area, Musalia Piti, 26, is taking care of his father’s 60 camels. His family lost 50 cows to the drought and decided to invest in camels, which they can sell when they need cattle for traditional ceremonies. Cows are essential among the Samburu for dowries during marriages.
“You have to do whatever it takes to secure cattle for wedding ceremonies, even if our herds are smaller now,” remarked Lesian Ole Sempere, a 59-year-old Samburu elder. Offering a cow as a gift to the bride’s family is an essential part of securing the marriage.
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Tiro reported from Samburu County, Kenya, and Musambi from Nairobi, Kenya.
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