PARIS (AP) — At the Dior collection unveiling, Maria Grazia Chiuri presented an intriguing blend of athletic style and urban edge on Tuesday. The minimalist designs showcased a ’60s sci-fi inspiration reminiscent of Star Trek, featuring bold, asymmetrical silhouettes and knee-high boots that added an element of danger.
The show was further elevated by a live archery performance, where an artist known as SAGG Napoli shot arrows into a target at the runway’s center. This striking act captured the attention of attendees, including celebrities like Natalie Portman and French First Lady Brigitte Macron, who responded with enthusiastic applause, amplifying the show’s dramatic flair.
Dior’s Empowering Vision
Chiuri made her intentions clear with an emphasis on female empowerment. Drawing inspiration from Christian Dior’s famed Amazone dress of the early 1950s, she modernized its silhouette with sleek, athletic lines. Models strut down the runway in streamlined black tops featuring dynamic cut-outs, circular patterns, and laced boots, echoing the lively spirit of the Paris Olympics. This collection highlighted a constant exploration of the balance between comfort and couture, navigating the duality of freedom and structured elegance.
The black-and-white color scheme nods to the iconic Miss Dior logo while pushing graphic boundaries. Monochrome bomber jackets, some punctuated by bright red details, conveyed a combat-ready vibe, while an all-white tuxedo with sharp fastenings hinted at a dark, menacing undertone reminiscent of a cinematic villain.
Metallic accents, including shimmering embroidery and butterfly motifs, added a delicate touch to the otherwise bold designs. Lightweight evening dresses crafted from jersey and adorned with shiny embellishments further demonstrated Chiuri’s commitment to merging elegance with comfort—a principle that has defined her work at Dior.
However, the show didn’t shy away from lighter contrasts. Breton-striped swimwear unexpectedly interjected itself among the otherwise fierce urban styles, at times making the attempt to balance classic femininity with a youthful edge appear somewhat forced. This contrast raised questions about the collection’s authenticity and its efforts to resonate with a younger demographic while remaining true to its heritage.
Archery and Empowerment at Dior
The live archery performance became one of the standout moments of the show. SAGG Napoli’s skillful execution with a high-tech bow symbolized the harmonious connection between mind and body. This element underscored Chiuri’s focus on strength and athleticism, themes that resonate with the forthcoming Paris 2024 Olympics. The audience, including stars like Aya Nakamura and Jennifer Garner, applauded the intersection of sport and fashion.
Natalie Portman humorously noted her own petite stature, commenting on whether she felt Amazonian—adding a light-hearted touch to the evening. Chiuri’s decision to include such performance art showcased her commitment to blending fashion with discussions on gender equality and empowerment. The message was additionally reinforced by a phrase displayed during the show: “May the building of a strong mind and a strong body be the greatest work I have ever made.”
Saint Laurent’s Brooding Glamour
Meanwhile, A-listers like Gwyneth Paltrow and Rami Malek graced the moody Saint Laurent show that took place on the Left Bank. Designer Anthony Vaccarello continued to experiment with exaggerated proportions, presenting jackets with dramatically wide shoulders that conveyed an architectural quality.
This collection resonated with a more introspective vibe, combining preppy accessories with 70s-inspired aesthetics and razor-sharp suits that harked back to the legendary Yves Saint Laurent. The silk foulard patterns on flowing gowns, paired with statement gold-plated earrings, exuded an elegant allure, reminiscent of Vaccarello’s past works while nodding to the house’s historical penchant for opulence.
As customary, Vaccarello’s minimalism shone through, particularly in the controlled silhouettes that opened the show. However, some critics noted an over-reliance on safety in the designs, which felt overly simplistic compared to earlier, more adventurous seasons.
Things took a turn in the latter half of the collection, where Vaccarello showcased his true ingenuity. He embraced rich textures—velvet, lace, and shimmering metallics—along with deep golds, reds, and blues. This infusion of luxury, marked by bold ruffled collars and sunray pleats, created a vibrant contrast that balanced historical references with modern freshness.
Anrealage’s Whimsical Surrealism
Kunihiko Morinaga’s Anrealage always astounds, and this latest collection was no exception. The show commenced with a captivating parachute design that inflated to merge elements of Elizabethan elegance with playful, candy-colored aesthetics. These whimsical yet striking forms established a collection poised between historical homage and futuristic innovation, enhanced by geometric, metallic hairpieces.
Morinaga’s expertise in technology and avant-garde design led to creations like a circular puffer jacket in distorted shapes reminiscent of Viktor & Rolf’s couture work. As the show unfolded, vibrant, clown-like silhouettes in bold hues took center stage.
While the absence of past technical mishaps was a relief, some critics questioned the practicality of the exaggerated designs. Although visually arresting, the inflatable garments strayed from everyday wearability. Nonetheless, they reaffirmed Anrealage’s commitment to pushing boundaries in fashion, echoing previous successes like last year’s viral color-changing outfit debut on Beyoncé.
Vaquera’s Decade of Disruption
Vaquera celebrated its 10th anniversary with a show that emphasized both introspection and their signature rebellious spirit. Designers Patric DiCaprio and Bryn Taubensee have evolved their aesthetic while retaining their edge, now introducing what they term “new basics.” But as always with Vaquera, these basics are anything but ordinary.
With designs like black bubble miniskirts paired with bike shorts, bullet-bra tops, and creatively reimagined button-downs, the collection blurred the lines between fetish and practicality. Vaquera’s approach to “basic” continues to sell well, attracting attention in the fashion market.
Yet beneath the show’s audaciousness lies a sense of recalibration. After a decade of rule-breaking, the designers are also responding to the industry’s financial realities. This season’s collection strayed from their earlier giant Tiffany-blue dustbag dresses, focusing instead on pieces that balance creativity with commercial viability. While Vaquera’s punk ethos remains intact, it has matured.
Subversive elements remained prominent, with denim adorned with interlocking Vs, oversized gold chain prints, and winged Pegasus motifs—a playful jab at luxury. Kitten-heel cowboy boots and quirky pumps rounded out the collection, infusing sophistication into their signature disruptiveness.
As Vaquera steps into its second decade, its core message is clear: continue to be bold and rebellious, but with a touch more refinement. This evolution proves that even the most avant-garde labels can grow without sacrificing their unique spirit.
